Friday, January 12, 2007

Dunn Disappointment

Casey Dunn started a rumor that a Belgian Beer bar was opening next to Christopher's in Wayne. I work in Wayne so I decided to check it out on the way in this morning. Casey was correct in one sense - it's a bar. However, The Freehouse is your standard 'British Tap Room'. In other words, bland food accompanied by blander beer.

I don't understand restranteurs sometimes. Is there really a need for another 'authetic' British pub? Will The Freehouse become a destination for those just dying to eat fish and chips? Of course not. It may do ok simply because it's situated in the middle of a town that is inhabited by people who go out to eat frequently. But it won't achieve the same success as a well-run Belgian Beer bar. Why? Here's why.

Admittedly the Belgian Beer bar serves a smaller local market than that of an English Pub. However, an authentic Belgian Beer bar similar to Monk's and Eulogy suddenly becomes a reason for beer heads to travel. And travel they will due to the limited number of real-for-real Belgian bars out there.

Moreover, the demand for such as place in the Main Line is growing. No other indicator should be needed than The Beer Yard. This Wayne bottle house changed from standard Bud distributor a few years ago to one of the most comprehensive distributors of imports, crafts, and micros. Now its reputation is second only to Shangy's in the state of PA. Furthermore, the economics of the burgeoning beer market suggests the need for additional Belgian/Specialty bars. The market share of micros and crafts is now up to 7% of all beer sold. This has grown from <1% in just 5 years!


Finally, the archaic Pennsylvania Beer Laws force us to drive to Jersey, Maryland, or Delaware to buy single bottles. Otherwise, we have to shell out $150 for a case of something when we just want to spend $12 to buy two bottles. So, if a bar opens that give me the opportunity to enjoy a des Roc Bruin or a Southampton Abbot 12 without purchasing a case I'm going to make the trip to do so - even if it means spending $8-$10 on the bottle. Plus, many of the best Belgian/Specialty bars go out of their way to obtain beers from small breweries that are otherwise unfindable. Oftentimes, special dinners are presented to give people the opportunity to try these gems. So, BAM! you have events, gain publicity, and become known as THE place for beer. Just ask Tom Peters. He went from just a guy who liked beer to one of only four American 'Belgian Beer Knights' simply because he focused on being different from his competitors.

Let's not overlook an obvious component - the food. Fare at the standard Belgian Beer bar is usually high quality and has an ethnic twist not found in an English Pub. Of course, Mussels and Frites are reason enough to become a patron. But other courses like Anguille au Vert, Boudin Blanc & Boudin Noir, and Koninginnehapjes veer toward gourmet and are quite tasty. Even those not interested in beer can appreciate a Belgian dinner.

So why hasn't this happened? Well, because it HASN'T happened. Investors in new restaurants are wary of opening a store that is completely different and unique, especially when the tired recipes of Kildares and John Harvards work so well (..shudder..). Another reason is focus. For years bars sold the cheapest beer they could to the college-age crowd. It certainly still works, so why change? Well, many bars alienate customers in the 25-34 yr old age group who want nothing less than hanging with a bunch of drunk idiots. This age group is radically different that 30 yr olds of the 80s and 90s. We desire quality, appreciate craft, and enjoy quiet conversation. Oh, and we're willing to pay for it.

Hopefully someone will see the light someday soon. Eulogy is opening two stores outside of Philadelphia. One is in Bucks County somewhere and the other hasn't been announced, although it will be opened in the suburbs. I know the place is run by a bunch of Walloons, but are they that stupid to not consider the Main Line?

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